A Simple Guide to Growing Amaryllis

Indoors in winter, outdoors in the garden, and year after year

Amaryllis are treasured for their ability to produce large, vibrant flowers indoors during the coldest months of winter. With a little care, an amaryllis bulb can bloom for you year after year, indoors or out. This guide walks you through the full life cycle: from planting and blooming indoors, to summer care, dormancy, and reblooming—plus how to grow amaryllis outdoors here in the Columbia area (Zone 8b).

Close-up of a healthy amaryllis bulb showing firm layers and new growth

Choosing Your Amaryllis Bulbs

Start strong. Everything good begins with the bulb.

  • Choose firm, heavy bulbs with no soft spots or mold

  • Bigger bulbs = more flower stalks and more blooms

  • Color options go far beyond red and white: pinks, burgundy, peach, orange, even green-tinged varieties

A note on bloom timing (this matters)

Amaryllis bulbs come from two growing cycles:

  • Southern Hemisphere bulbs (“Christmas blooming”)
    Bloom quickly—often in 4–6 weeks. Ideal for holiday displays.

  • Northern Hemisphere bulbs (“shelf-stable”)
    Take longer to adjust and typically bloom in 6–10 weeks.

Neither is better—just plan accordingly.

Amaryllis bulb planted in a pot with the top third of the bulb exposed above soil

Planting Amaryllis Indoors

1. Wake the Bulb

Soak the roots (not the bulb itself) in warm water for about 1 hour, then drain.

2. Choose the Right Pot

  • Use a 6–7 inch pot for a single bulb

  • Amaryllis like being slightly root-bound

  • Always ensure good drainage

3. Plant Correctly

  • Use well-draining potting soil

  • Leave ⅓ to ½ of the bulb above the soil line

  • Firm soil gently—don’t pack it tight

4. Water Once, Then Wait

  • Water thoroughly after planting.
    Then do not water again until green growth appears.

5. Warm, Quiet Start

  • Place the pot in a warm dark spot (70–75°F).

  • Low light encourages critical root development—roots come first.

Pro tip: If the bulb is already sprouting, relax. The stem will straighten as it grows.

Amaryllis in bud indoors during winter with large pink flowers

Bringing Your Amaryllis Into Bloom

  • Move the pot into bright light once growth begins

  • Ideal temperature: 70–80°F

  • Water only when the top inch of soil is dry

  • Rotate the pot daily once the flower stalk appears to keep it straight

Patience pays off here. Overwatering is the fastest way to ruin an amaryllis.

Amaryllis flowers in full bloom indoors away from direct sunlight

Caring for Amaryllis in Bloom

  • Move out of direct sun once flowers open to extend bloom time

  • Snip individual flowers as they fade

  • When a stalk finishes blooming, cut it back to 2 inches above the bulb

  • Do not remove the leaves—they recharge the bulb

The Life Cycle

Indoor Bloom → Summer Growth → Fall Dormancy → Winter Bloom

How to Save Amaryllis for Reblooming Indoors

This is where most people quit—and where you get the payoff.

After Blooming

  • Keep the plant in bright light

  • Water as needed

  • Fertilize monthly with a balanced fertilizer

Summer Outdoors

Once nighttime temperatures stay above 60°F (usually May):

  • Move pots outdoors to morning sun or filtered light

  • Leaves should grow long and healthy—this is energy storage

Full sun can cause outdoor blooms but may reduce winter flowering. Think strength, not speed.

Cutting back amaryllis leaves after they yellow to prepare the bulb for dormancy

Dormancy is not optional—it’s how next year’s bloom forms.

  1. In late summer or early fall, stop fertilizing

  2. Gradually reduce watering

  3. Once foliage yellows, cut leaves to 1 inch above the bulb

  4. Store the pot in a cool, dark, dry place (50–60°F) for 8–10 weeks

  5. No water during dormancy

Label the pot with the variety and storage date—you’ll thank yourself later.

Letting Amaryllis Go Dormant

Restarting Growth After Dormancy

  • Bring the bulb back into warmth and light

  • Refresh the soil, leaving ⅓ of the bulb exposed

  • Repot only if the bulb is pressing hard against the pot sides

  • Water thoroughly once, then wait for growth

New growth usually appears in 1–3 weeks. Sometimes longer. As long as the bulb stays firm, it’s alive.

In Zones 8–10, amaryllis can be grown outdoors once frost has passed.

Growing Amaryllis Outdoors

in Zone 8b (Columbia Area)

  • Amaryllis can be grown outdoors in Zones 8–10.

  • Plant after frost danger has passed (mid-April or later)

  • Choose sun to partial shade with excellent drainage

  • Plant with the bulb neck slightly above soil level

  • Water regularly but never let soil stay soggy

  • Fertilize monthly during the growing season

Outdoors, amaryllis focus on foliage. That’s good—it fuels future blooms.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Fungus Gnats

Almost always caused by overwatering.

Fix it:

  • Let soil dry more between waterings

  • Neem oil drench or

  • Hydrogen peroxide solution (1 part 3% peroxide : 4 parts water)

Dormant Bulbs Not Sprouting

Some bulbs take up to six weeks to wake up.

  • Keep them warm

  • Do not water until a stem is at least 2 inches tall

  • Firm bulb = healthy bulb

Amaryllis bring generous, dramatic blooms at a time of year when almost nothing else does. In the quiet of winter—especially in January, when we spend more time indoors—their flowers offer color, life, and something living to enjoy up close.

They also make exceptional gifts, and even better long-term companions. Amaryllis ask very little, yet reward a small amount of care with blooms year after year, becoming familiar and anticipated rather than disposable.

One winter, I gifted amaryllis forcing kits to friends and watched their excitement unfold through photos of blooms weeks later. That shared sense of anticipation and joy is what makes amaryllis so special—and why they continue to earn a place in our homes each winter.

Why Amaryllis are Worth It

Seasonal note: Amaryllis bulbs are available each year beginning in early November.